Ultima Thule

In ancient times the northernmost region of the habitable world - hence, any distant, unknown or mysterious land.

Sunday, July 10, 2005

Ukrainian fashion hits the catwalk in Paris

By Aussiegirl

From the steppes of Ukraine to the catwalk in Paris -- French designer Gaultier was so inspired by his visit to Kiev that he created an entire collection based on Ukrainian folk costumes. Well, you can take a look at the photo in the original article and see what you think. There is something which resembles a Hutsul jacket -- and there's no question that the Ukrainian national dress (and there is a wide variety of styles from many different regions) is a rich source of material, drawing as it does on the ancient artistic inclinations and skills of its people through the ages. Even though all this designer nonsense is a little hard to take seriously, it's nice that the world is taking a look at Ukraine as more than simply a former communist vassal state with a history of corruption and misery and radioactive fallout. There is beauty there -- and this designer did see it, to his credit. Kateryna Yushchenko and her daughter were guests of honor at the fashion show.

The Telegraph has the story:

Inspired Gaultier creates a fairytale from the steppes

Jean Paul Gaultier's new take on Ukraine's national dress and tribal costumes expressed a sartorial luxury hitherto denied the former communist state, writes Hilary Alexander.

Ukraine provided a rich seam of inspiration for the French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier on the closing day of the Paris haute couture autumn/winter 2005-06 season yesterday.

Under Gaultier's inspired direction, the country's national dress and tribal costumes were translated into a caravanserai of folklore fantasia, dripping with fox and mink and expressing a sartorial luxury hitherto denied the former communist state.

Ukraine's First Lady, Kateryna Yushchenko, the wife of the new president, and the couple's six-year-old daughter, Sophia, were the guests of honour - an indication of their determination to forge closer ties with Europe.

"We want to bring to Europe what is best from Ukraine and to take back the best of Europe," Mrs Yushchenko said.

Gaultier's passion for this historic region stems from his visit, in May, as a guest of honour at the 2005 Eurovision Song Contest in Kiev.

"He was enthralled," said Mrs Yushchenko, who was attending her first haute couture show. "We are thrilled he has decided to take inspiration from our culture and demonstrate it to the rest of the world."

Gaultier's collection unfolded like a fairytale by Hans Christian Andersen or The Brothers Grimm, and as evocative as a Tchaikovsky ballet.

The models, including England's Lily Cole, Erin O'Connor and Jade Parfitt, were dressed as Rapunzel, with 5ft hair extensions cascading down the backs of their gowns and braids twisted into exotic plaited head-dresses which recalled those worn by Ukraine maidens.

Velvet jackets in the hutsal style of the Carpathians, were embroidered in gold and featured collars and gauntlet cuffs of fox and mink. Folksy dirndl skirts were fashioned from yards of embroidered and floral-appliqued silk, swishing around the legs to reveal fur petticoats and fur-trimmed boots. Other skirts were created from slivers of fox and sheepskin.
Extravagant military-style coats in bright orange, pewter, onyx or chocolate cashmere, finished with astrakhan wide collars and triple cuffs, featured the ancient paisley-esque patterns of Ukraine, known as trypilian.

Gaultier also extended his creative boundaries to include Cossack-look ensembles, in jewel-toned, devore velvet, with big-sleeved peasant smocks worn over full trousers, tucked into flat satin boots.

As the show progressed, the colours became more intense, culminating with flame orange and purple velvet trouser and blouse ensembles, gold brocade smocks trimmed with fox and gowns created from patchwork tiers of rainbow print and lace, with long fringing and marabou feathers.

Erin O'Connor and Jade Parfitt closed the show as handmaiden and bride. O'Connor, a former ballerina, pirouetting the length of the catwalk in a multi-coloured, ruffled chiffon peasant blouse and long skirt, encrusted with handmade silk flowers, and Parfitt in a wedding gown of cream tulle and velvet, with sheepskin cuffs and train.

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